Welcome to a whole new year, a whole new decade and the first-ever edition of From Watchland. I'm anticipating that you might have a few questions. Let's get the obvious ones out of the way nice and early … who are you, and what is this?
If you're this much of an early adopter, you likely know who I am, but in case you don't… hi, I'm Felix Scholz. Talking about watches is what I do. Up until fairly recently, I did that in my capacity as editor at Time+Tide, but now I'm a free agent (HMU on IG). I'm looking after Revolution Australia as their Executive Editor. On top of that, I'm the Watch Editor of Australian business travel site Executive Traveller (much executive, many watch). There's also a few other things brewing away, much in the manner of a spicy kombucha.
So what is this? Well, the TL;DR is – it's a newsletter. That might seem a little odd or even old-fashioned in this multi-channel digital world, but go with me for a second. Newsletters are becoming a bit of a thing. Substack, the service I'm using raised $15-odd million in capital last year. Long-time Vanity Fair supremo Graydon Carter launched Airmail, and he's not alone in embracing a seemingly archaic medium. The longer you think about it, the more sense it makes. It's direct, showing up in your inbox (fortnightly for now), and not based on the whims of the algorithm or infinite scroll. It's more honest, free from the machinations of Google and Facebook. It's also pretty personal.
From Watchland will be — obviously — about watches. Specifically, I want a place to tell stories that I can't really publish elsewhere. Stories that are seemingly too small, or stories that don't translate into snappy clickbait. Also (and this is important) I want to tell stories free from the constraints of commerce. One of the most common criticisms of the big watch sites is that the needs of advertisers have compromised the coverage. A lot of the time I find this complaint is a little simplistic, but where there's smoke, there's usually fire. Now don't get me wrong, I need to make a living just like the next watch journo, and I can have this pretty great job thanks to watch brand advertising. But, that's not what From Watchland is about.
Expect this newsletter to be more unfiltered, a little more behind the scenes. It's also something that I'm hoping will be a bit more of a dialogue. Typically when I write I submit copy, it gets published, and maybe someone makes a comment on Instagram. This thing here, it's much more direct, you can reply … and I will read it.
So, that's enough of the lengthy opening spiel (it won't always be like this, I promise). Onto the watches.
Until next time,
Felix
PS: I'd like to ask a favour. In these early days of From Watchland, I'd really appreciate it if you could help spread the word. Forward it to your friends, put it on the internet. All that jazz. If you know people who are into watches and want to know more than the usual circular debate about the price of a Pepsi these days, send them my way.
The year in review — 2019's most interesting watches
Let's kick off with a bit of real talk. I found last year's watch releases generally lacking in whelm. It's not that things were underwhelming per se, but I wasn't overwhelmed either. Things were … adequate. I suspect there are a few things at play here. Big brands are playing it safe in uncertain times (soft luxury markets, supply issues, etc.). I'm also willing to admit that my glasses weren't precisely rose-coloured last year. But more than that, I think we're in the midst of slower, more meaningful change. One that's hard to pin down, except around the edges. But broadly speaking I think that the 90s nostalgia that fast-moving-fashion has been mainlining for a while (hello chunky sneakers) has finally hit the wrists (hello yellow gold two-tone and biomorphism).
Having said that. Here's my top-line take on last year's best/most-significant/most-interesting watches, in A-Z order.
Oh, and in the next edition I’m going to come up with some hopes and dreams for a more exciting 2020 release slate.
A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus
Important in many ways. Steel(!), sporty, apparently superb IRL, but I just can't get behind that name.
Audemars Piguet 11.59
Oh boy, did this set the tone for the year. Average design plus overblown marketing announcement meets the dumpster fire of watch internet 'expertise'. Memes ensue.
Anordain Model 2
I fell hard for the second offering from these smart Scots. Excellent value enamel dial in interesting colours, with a case to match and a cohesive brand narrative.
Baltic Aquascaphe
French micro nails proportion and on point vintage design. Delivers one of the best in class releases of the year. And why isn't anyone else using quick-release bracelet bars?
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT
Bulgari is still on a roll with the mighty Octo Finissimo. Technically impressive but a touch too big for me. Much as I love it, I'm really waiting for the 38mm OF.
Chopard Alpine Eagle
Did Chopard use the same naming consultant as Lange? Does anyone else remember American Eagle? Weird name aside, a nice watch that will do well for them.
Greubel Forsey Hand Made 1
So, confession time. I don't really get the whole GF Aesthetic. Astonishing and impressive yes, but it doesn't warm my cockles. This old school exercise in 'just because we can' is outstanding. And very expensive.
Hublot Ferrari Classic Fusion GT
Hublot's seeming inoculation from the court of online opinion means they can just get on with business. Business which occasionally involves making stunners like this.
Omega Speedmaster Apollo 11 Limited Edition (the gold one)
Omega sometimes cop flack for their ongoing LEs. But you've got to hand it to them, this is how you celebrate your watch making it to the moon. Class act.
Seiko 5
The SKX is dead! Long live the Seiko 5! Plus, it looks like Seiko has cut out the middle man by coming up with all the hot (and a few not) combos themselves.
Seiko Prospex LX
The latest step in the Seiko/Grand Seiko push upmarket is stepping it to Omega. Designs are still a touch idiosyncratic, and it will take time to get people used to that many zeros on the sticker of a Seiko.
Timex Q
Proving that hype isn't just for the top end of town.
Another 'talking piece' that further stretches the malleable Black Bay story. Polarising design aside (I like it), it does beg the question — what is a Black Bay?
TAG Heuer Autavia … Isograph?
TAG Heuer debuts new design aimed at stepping to the Black Bay crowd AND new carbon escapement technology. The fact that it's now shipping with a regular Cal 5 means we'll be waiting a little longer for the latter.
Richard Mille Bonbon collection
Le Bonbon c'est Bon. Pardon my French but its true. I'm on the fence with RM's gear-oriented whizzbangery, but this sweet, OTT confection I can very much get behind. Despite what stuffier commentators say, watchmaking doesn't have to be so serious.
Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar
Another instalment in the periodical series I like to call 'Vacheron Constantin schools everyone on serious watchmaking'.
Zenith Defy Inventor
Wearing it would give me a headache, and the bezel looks like an Aero bar, but by golly isn't the fact that the Defy Lab escapement is commercial an impressive feat.
So, I was meant to write this as a list of 19 or 20 watches, but you know what, I couldn't get any further than 17. And if that's not telling about the state of affairs, I don't know what was. I mean, there's other watches I liked, but they were updates of existing pieces, so they didn't make the cut. Here's hoping I can come up with a full count in 2020.
End of an era – can Ochs und Junior survive the shakeup?
One of the more shocking bits of news that emerged in the last month or so was the announcement that Ochs und Junior founder and CEO Beat Weinmann (along with four other core staff) were leaving the brand. This is rarely, if ever, a sign of good health. If you're not familiar, Ochs und Junior was founded in 2006 and used the considerable watchmaking clout of Ludwig Oeschlin to power its well-priced, wholly customisable and ingenious watches. There is speculation that the board, including Ludwig Oeschlin and Ulysse Nardin (who have been shareholders since 2012) CEO Patrick Pruniaux, is intending to move away from the bespoke model to a small batch approach. I can understand the business sense of this, but I wonder if it removes the very thing that makes the brand (which produces under 200 watches a year) so special.
The question
Omega has just dropped its latest Speedmaster using the impressively back-from-the-dead Calibre 321. In a sexy, flat-linked, Ed White, slightly fauxtina-d steel form no less. Only catch? The $20K AUD (13K CHF) sticker price. So, do you think it's worth it? Hit reply and let me know.
The 30-second review
Bell & Ross has put a round peg in a square hole with their new BR05 collection. People arced up hard, calling it an AP/PP ripoff, conveniently forgetting that B&R is all about non-round cases and exposed bezel screws. Having said that, it’s clear they’re after a slice of that sweet stainless steel sports pie. But what’s it like as a watch? Well-fitting, comfy and clean. I like the slimmer profile. I do think the dial is a bit cramped, but I’m excited to see where this collection goes next.
The reading list
When one of the elder statesmen of Rolex collecting and scholarship speaks, you should listen (or watch as the case may be). Hodinkee's New Year's resolutions are legit. The long view on luxury. Moser’s Streamliner is their best in a while. I gazed into my horological crystal ball. Auction supremo John Reardon's new site is epic (opening with Ed Sheeren is a flex). QP’s best watches of the year. Longines keeps dropping heritage bangers …. and also … sunglasses? *shrugs*